Method and apparatus for making a fabric



July 22, 1958 R. DITTRICH 2, METHOD AND AP PARA' 1US FOR MAKING A FABRIC Filed July 11, 1955 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 quid-iii! I INVENTOR.

-= 5172051 5! .DJTZ'FJCH July 22, 1958 DlTTRlCH 2,844,017

METHOD AND: APPARATUS FOR MAKING A FABRIC Filed July 11, 1955 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 United States Patent .METHOD AND APPARATUS FOR MAKING A FABRIC Inrecent years stitch-producing machines as well as the-older bobbin. machines and special looms have been Successfully used in the manufacture of textiles and. in particular in the manufacture of loose curtain fabrics. The production of patterned and unpatternedwfilet currains--oni crocheting Galon:machinesprovedladvantageous because of the clear square mesh background of the finished goods. The operation of a stitch-forming machine is known. Therfabric is madevup of the warp-threads .and 1the=filling threads; The warp-threads :arecrocheted into strands which extend vertically in the material and form-the basis: for the finished crocheted goods. The filling threadsi incorporate the separate crocheted warp threads tozforrn. a continuous gfa-bric.

Stitch-forming .imachines, e. g, crochet-Galen machines, produce very durable finished goods with an especially clear background because of the tight incorporation of the filling; threads into the separate stitches of-the warp threads. Further these machines are considerably cheaper, incostand operation than the bobbin machines. -.On the other hand, only very simple crocheted patterns can-beproduced-on the conventional stitchforming machines. The possibility to produce a variety ofipatternsand the facilities toimprove the finesse of the crocheted goods is rather limited.

The control of the rods for the filling threads in modern -crocheting machines is effected by means of a chain. .The type of the pattern determines the length oid-the chain, which on. account of its own .weight must notexceed a certain-length.

The gnidestor the pat-ternrthread are arranged onthe filling thread .rodsor. pattern rods .according to the pattern; they guide the pattern thread continuously throughv the-curtain. Even though the pattern for the particularthread guide may be ,finished, :the pattern thread-.continuesinthe crochetedstitch until it resumes its pattern. This reinforcement of the crocheted stitch fiauses undesirable threads from one pattern detailto the next, which threads are in no way connected with the pattern .andhence result in a blurred impression of the not patterned section ,ofithe ,fabric. When designing a curtain. pattern Whichis to be producedona crocheting .Galon machine, the pattern threads should be idle as little as possible; Therefore, continuous patterns are preferred for.,-.crocheting.-Galon ,.curtains. 1

With the exception of the suggestions to be discussed later,itis necessary in all known methods of making curtain fabrics .on.,.crocheting-Galon. machines that. the

guides tor thefilling and pattern threadsdip between the crochctiig needles. to position the ,filling threads below the plane of thecrocheting needlesto effect the incorporation of the filling and pattern threads into the crocheted stitch of the Warp threads. The space be tween two crocheting needles required for this dipping operation has prevented densely crocheted goods.

" -This inventor-"has found'that it 'is possible to produce curtain-tabricswith a background'having a dense net "ice structure on crocheting-"Galon machines. For this purpose the guides for the filling threads are arranged only above the-plane .of the-crocheting needles and movable at right angles to these needles. The filling threads. are pulled under the plane of the crocheting rneedles by means of specially hook-shaped thread positioning fingers. The thickness of these thread positioning fingers needs to be only a fraction of a millimeter. Since these thin fingers are introduced between adjacent crochet'ing needles instead of the-comparatively thick guides ifor-the filling thread, the crocheting needles may be arranged closer to one another in a row :and thereby produce a denser background pattern. According to this propoisition there is, similar to the previously known machines with up and down moving guides for the fi'llingthreads, only little space available above the crocheting needles. Hence the number-of filling thread rods that maybe providedfor the decorative threads with. which the decorative pattern is-.created is limited to five.

According to another suggestion: of' the present inyentor, which-is not prior art, the thread positioning fingers operating in the space between two adjacent crocheting needles have no hooks and are-arranged above the crochet ing needles a'nd behind theplane of the filling threads. The thread positioning fingers engage the'filling threads :irom the upper rear and position them below the plane of the'crocheti-ng needles. In this arrangementtheispace infront of the thread guides :of the-filling threads for the background pattern is unoccupied. Con sid'erably morerails' for the decorative filling threads can be arranged in this" unoccupied space. These rails may be arranged in a circle, i. e. the same distance from the incorporating points of the decorative threads. This provides the possibility to produce finished goods of varied patterns .on a fine background. However, all patterns are continuous and have narrow Widthof rapport.

According to the same suggestion the-eyelet needles are no longer :hindered in-their lateral movement by the thread positioning fingers which heretofore came: from the frontand from below. It'jis thus possible to operate several eyelet needle rodslone above the other. This type of operation, which is required 'for the production of lace-type textiles, was impossible with filling thread guides that dip into the spaces between the crocheting needles or with an arrangement of thread positioning fingers which. enter from below between the eyelet needles.

The present invention proceedsffronithe last'mentioned suggestion. It is an object of the present invention not only to provide crocheted fabricsw-ith any desired pat- -tern,-as is done by the known stitch-forming machines with Jacquard controlled filling-thread guides, but to provide such goods with a net-like background of practically any desired dens'enessandlany. desired structure.

The present invention introduces pencils which are controlled 'by a Jacquard apparatus; These pencils iare arranged above thei pl'ane of the crocheting needles and movable backward :and forward along their lengths. ,A Iailwcarries these pencils. This-rail is reciprocated at the-same rhythm as the rail for the filling thread guides. It can be' horizontally displaced at right angles to the lengthof the .crocheting needles and vbya distance equal to the spacing of three Crocheting needles. Thus each filling thread has associated therewith a thread positioning finger temporarily locating the thread below the plane of the crocheting needles and a pencil controlled by a Jacquard apparatus, which pencil. does not engage the "thread in its normal position. When released by'the Jacquardapp'aratus, the spring-loaded pencil jumps between two filling "threads and laterally deflects the associated filling-thread; According to the present invert- 3 tion, this deflection is such that each filling thread designated for a predetermined pattern is not positioned by the associated thread positioning finger under a central crocheting needle but is positioned by an adjacent thread positioning finger under a crocheting needle to the right or to the left of the central needle. The central and either the right or the left needle simultaneously incorporate the laterally deflected filling thread into the stitches of two adjacent warp threads.

The method according to the present invention is as follows:

Let us assume that for a certain pattern a rectangular field of the net-like background pattern is to be filled in fully or in part. This field be limited to the right and to the left by two adjacent warp threads, or the stitched strand formed thereby, and by filling threads at the bottom and on top.

The movement of the rail or rails carrying the guides for the filling threads is so adjusted that after completion of the lower field boundary the filling thread is wound around the associated warp thread and after completion of the desired height of the field is incorporated into an adjacent warp thread to produce the upper boundary of the field. Apart from this movement of the filling thread guides necessary for the production of the background pattern, the filling thread S, associated with a warp thread K, may, for instance, be deflected so far to the right by its Jacquard-controlled pencil that the right thread positioningfinger positions it under the crocheting needle associated with the next adjacent warp thread to the right. Several repetitions of this procedure resultsin the appearance of a field filled with a single filling thread. If desired it is possible to simultaneously deflect to the left the filling thread associated with the second warp thread at the return of the rail for the pencils by means of the associated Jacquard-controlled pencil. This second filling thread is then positioned under the crocheting needle associated with the first thread and thus fills in the same field starting at the right. A field filled with two filling threads is thereby obtained. It will be understood that, according to the actuation of the J acquard-controlled pencils and depending on the predetermined Jacquard pattern, a single or double filling of the total field height or of a fraction thereof is accomplished. It is thereby possible to reinforce or weaken specified sections of the pattern compared to other patterned sections and the finished goods have corresponding light and shadow effects.

Further, as is known in the art, the guides for the filling threads may be arranged on several rails movable parallel with respect to one another and at right angles to the length of the crocheting needles. According to the present invention the Jacquard-controlled pencils affect only those filling threads in such an arrangement which belong to a rail or rails designed for the formation of the pattern. The remaining rail or rails are so controlled, also in a known manner, that the associated filling threads form the background pattern in cooperation with the warp threads. As mentioned before, it is possible to produce any desired net-like background pattern by means of the positioning fingers engaging the last mentioned filling threads. Independent of this background pattern any desired pattern, for instance separate flowers, may be produced by means of the filling threads controlled by the remaining rails, corresponding to the given maximum displacement of the filling thread guide of the stitch-producing machine.

The method according to the present invention may be further extended by arranging several rows of Jacquard-controlled pencils. Preferably two such rows are positioned as mirror images, i. e., on opposite sides of the vertical planes formed by the filling threads, which rows are moved in opposite directions. In this instance and according to the present invention, the pencils of each row displace the filling threads guided by a separate rail.

In this embodiment of the present invention it is possible to produce the complete pattern or any detail thereof with a thread thickness of from one to four filling threads. Thus by using the present invention, it is possible to fill in each field of the background pattern with an ornamental pattern of a thickness from one to 4 threads. The greater the number of threads, the more sculptured-like or embossed-like is the appearance of the ornamental pattern projecting from the surface of the net-like background pattern.

The invention will now be more fully described with reference to the accompanying drawing, but it should be understood that this is given by way of illustration and not of limitation and that many changes can be made in the details without departing from the spirit of the invention. The drawing illustrates a particular embodiment of the present invention and shows the pertinent parts of a crocheting machine in simplified representation.

Fig. 1 is a side view of the warp and filling thread guides; and

Figs. 2 to 5 are front views of the filling thread guides at ditferent positions of its cooperating parts.

Referring to Fig. l, K designates a warp thread and S two filling threads. Two filling thread guides 1 for the filling threads are attached by means of holders 2 to rails 3. The rails 3 are arranged above a crocheting needle 9 and can be displaced horizontally and at right angles to the length of the crocheting needle 9 by a distance equal to double the crocheting needle spacing either to the right or to the left of its central undisplaced position. In front of the vertical planes formed by the filling threads S which slide through the filling thread guides 1 and immediately below the filling thread guides 1 and also above the horizontal plane of the crocheting needles 9 are located pencils 4. The number of these pencils is equal to the number of filling threads S. Two Jacquard apparatus, not shoWn, control the pencils 4. Rails 5 carry the pencils 4. The rails 5 reciprocate at the same rhythm as the rails 3 for the filling thread guides 1 horizontally and at right angles to the lengths of the crocheting needles but with a displacement equal to triple the crocheting needle spacing either to the right or to the left of its central or undisplaced position. Each pencil 4 is surrounded by a spring 6 inside the rail 5. The spring 6 tends to force the associated pencil 4 by means of a collar 7 to the right, i.,e. between the filling threadsS. The pencils 4 are retained in their rest position by strings 8 from a Jacquard apparatus against the action of the springs 6; in the rest position, the pencils 6 can not engage the filling threads S. If a string 8 releases the associated pencil 4, the pencil 4 is jumped forward by its associated spring 6 between the filling threads S. The pencil 4 will then displace the associated filling thread S depending on the position of the rail 5 to the right or to the left.

The warp threads K are guided in a conventional manner by eyelet needles 12 which in cooperation with the crocheting needles 9 form a crocheted strand of each warp thread. Besides the thread guides 1 and the Jacquard-controlled pencil 4 each filling thread S has associated therewith a thread positioning finger 10 which may depress the filling thread below the horizontal plane of the crocheting needles 9. The fingers 10 which have no hooks are placed on a common shaft 11 and can rotate as indicated by the section of a circle. Fig. 1 illustrates the shaft 11 in its operative position, i. e., in the position in which the thread positioning finger 10 positions the associated filling threads S below the plane of the crocheting needles 9.

Let us assume that the filling thread guide 1 of a filling thread S is positioned to the right of the asso ciated crocheting needle 9 (Fig. 2). If the shaft 11 swings the thread positioning finger downwards, thefilling thread .5 is positioned below the plane of the crocheting. needles 9 ,(Fig. 3); The reciprocatingmovement of the fining thread guide 1 winds the filling thread around the associated strand K of the crocheted warp thread. An incorporation 'of'the filling thread to the rightor left does not occur. l

To accomplish such an incorporation for instance to the. right, the J acquard apparatus releases the .pencil 4 associated with the filling thread 1. Thereafter'the rail 5 will be moved to the right and thefiprojecting pencil 4 forcesthe filling thread S so far to .the right,that the thread S is engaged simultaneously with the adjacent thread S by the thread positioning finger 10a associated with S Since the filling threads S and S are positioned below the plane of the crocheting needles 9 (Fig. 5), the filling thread S and the filling thread S are both placed under the crocheting needle 9a, associated with the filling thread S The two adjacent needles 9 and 9a can now incorporate the filling thread S in two adjacent warp thread strands K and K whereby an incorporation is accomplished.

In the embodiment of the machine which has been illustrated, the stitch-forming crocheting Galon machine comprises two rails 3 for the filling thread guides 1 and only two rows or series of Jacquard-controlled pencils 4.

ticular relates to a novel and advantageous cooperation of these elements. What I claim is: 1. A method for the production of arbitrarily patterned textiles having crocheted warp threads, comprising the steps of aligning a row of crocheting needles in a horizontal plane, guiding each warp thread and each crocheting needle to engage the thread and to crochet it into a strand, arranging a series of filling thread guides on a common carrier, slidingly attaching one filling thread to each of said guides, said filling threads extending in a vertical plane, horizontally moving said common carrier with a reciprocating motion at right angles to the length of the crocheting needles, temporarily positioning the filling threads under the plane of the crocheting needles, and additionally displacing a selected sequence of the filling threads at a predetermined rhythm by predetermined amounts.

2. A method for the production of arbitrarily patterned textiles, and in particular of curtain fabrics, on stitchproducing machines, for instance crocheting-Galen machines, comprising the steps of aligning a row of crocheting needles in a horizontal plane, guiding each warp thread and each crocheting needle to engage the thread and to crochet it into a strand, arranging a series of filling thread guides, each carrying one filling thread, above this plane, horizontally moving said guides with a reciprocating motion to the left and right of the associated crocheting needle, positioning the filling threads under the plane of the crocheting needles by means of thread positioning fingers which engage the threads from the upper rear, displacing each filling thread destined to participate in the formation of a predetermined pattern by means of a Jacquard-controlled pencil arranged above the crocheting needle and movable parallel therewith, and supporting said pencil by a rail moving in the same rhythm as said guide by a distance equal to triple the crocheting needle spacing.

.3. A method according to claim 2, .further comprising the steps of producing a background-pattern by rhythmically moving .atleast .one first filling thread railcarry ing a series of said filling thread guides .and incorporating the associated filling. threads into the crocheted warp threads, and producihga decorative pattern by rhythmically :moving .at least one second; filling thread rail, carryingv another seriesofsaid filling thread guides, parallel to said first ,rail and associatingsaid Jacquard-controlled pencils with the filling threads carried by said series of filling thread guides organ second ffilling thread rail.

,4. A method according to claim 3 for reinforcing or weakening specified sectionsin a fabric pattern, further comprising-the step of associating each of at least two series of Jacquard-controlled pencils with a series of filling threads carried by a separate filling thread rail.

5. In a stitch-forming machine for textiles having crocheted warp threads, a series of crocheting needles said crocheting needles being arranged parallel in a horizontal plane and adapted to form a crocheted strand of each individual warp thread, at least one series of filling thread guides for a series of filling threads arranged above the horizontal plane containing the crocheting needles, said threads being individually carried by said filling thread guides and extending in a vertical plane, said filling thread guides being adapted to perform a reciprocating movement in a horizontal direction at right angles to the length of the crocheting needles, at least one series of filling thread displacing means, said means being adapted to displace at least one series of filling threads in a horizontal direction at right angles to the length of the crocheting needles at a predetermined sequence, and thread positioning fingers adapted to engage said filling threads and to position them below the horizontal plane of the crocheting needles.

6. A stitch-forming machine as claimed in claim 5, in which at least one of said series of displacing means performs a reciprocating movement in the same rhythm but over a different distance as said filling thread guides associated with the same series of filling threads, said series of displacing means engaging said series of filling threads at a predetermined sequence.

7. In a stitch-forming machine for textiles having crocheted warp threads, a series of crocheting needles, said crocheting needles being arranged parallel in a horizontal plane and adapted to form a crocheted strand of each individual warp thread, at least one first rail, said first rail being arranged horizontally above the horizontal plane containing the crocheting needles, and adapted to perform a reciprocating movement in a horizontal direction at right angles to the length of the crocheting needles and extending over a distance equal to four times the crocheting needle spacing, at least one series of filling thread guides for a series of fitting threads, said series of filling thread guides being carried by said first rail, said series of filling threads being individually carried by said filling thread guides and extending in a vertical plane, at least one second rail, said second rail being arranged above the horizontal plane containing the crocheting needles and adapted to reciprocate at the same rhythm and in the same direction as said first rail over a distance equal to six times the crocheting needle spacing, a series of pencils,

said pencils being carried by said second rail, said pencils being adapted to assume two alternative positions, a first position and a second position, when in said first position said pencils being outside of the vertical plane containing said filling threads, and when in said second position said pencils are penetrating the vertical plane containing said filling threads, a Jacquard apparatus, said Jacquard apparatus controlling the position of said pencils, and a series of thread positioning fingers adapted to engage the filling threads from the upper rear and to position them below the horizontal plane of the crocheting needles.

8. A machine as claimed in claim 7, in which said pen- 7 oils are spring-loaded, said Jacquard apparatus working against the tension of the springs.

9. A machine as claimed in claim 7, comprising at least two first movable rails, the filling threads controlled by the filling thread guides of at least one of said first rails cooperating with the warp threads to form a background pattern, and in which the Jacquard-controlled pencils are arranged to engage the filling threads controlled by the filling thread guides of at least one other first rail destined to participate in the formation of the pattern.

10. A machine as claimed in claim 9, in which two series of pencils are controlled by the same Jacquard appa- 8 r ratus, said two series being arranged at opposite sides of the vertical plane formed by the filling threads, the pen-' cils of said two series being controlled to move in opposite directions.

.Referen'ces Citedin the file of this aatent UNITED STATES PATENTS 1,316,647 Renault Sept. 23, 1919 2,699,658 Peters Jan. 18,1955

FOREIGN PATENTS 800,316 Germany Oct. 30, 1950 

